So it’s a super-fun day at your local beach break, and everyone is out. Tons of guys are ripping, and the surf is pumping enough so that you can easily separate the shredders from the average bros. While your paddling back out from the inside, a your eyes catch this guy with a stickered-up board paddling out to the same peak you are. He gives a friendly nod, then proceeds to sit about five yards deeper than you thought was possible on this day. A big set rolls through, and — of course — he’s in the perfect spot. You roll over the back as the wave passes only to see a blur of board, fins and spray that looks like it was shot from a firehose. Next up is a full-rotation 360 air, then you realize this guy is on an entirely different level than even the best guys you were sharing the peak with.
LUCAS ROGERS is that guy; and the above is a true account of a session at Sandbridge S-Turns which he dominated with his ability get vertical where most bail and to boost seriously huge punts.
We recently caught up with Lucas about his recent submission in INNERSECTION, Taylor Steele’s freesurfing platform where pros and bros alike vie for spots in his upcoming film project. Lucas’ section has been turning heads since it dropped, but he needs YOUR support to put him over the top and into the film.
Rate Lucas at http://innersection.tv/video/217.
Check out the interview and enjoy!
Rick Leopold photo
— M.E. Read the rest of this entry »